Umbria - Assisi & Perugia

Sunday saw us journey from Padova near Venice to the region of Umbria. First stop was the ancient hilltop town of Assisi, birthplace and resting place of St Francis. He pretty well dominates tourism there, the main attractions are all churches or shrines most related to San Francesco.

As we drove off the freeway some exits were closed and we noticed large parking areas with buses. We were a bit worried there was some sort of festival or pilgrimage on that would mean we wouldn't get anywhere near the town. It turned out to be a peace march, the 50th anniversary of the first of nineteen from Perugia to Assisi. Apparently the first march 50 years ago saw the introduction of the rainbow coloured peace flag.

We were able to drive up to Assisi, albeit by a back road through olive groves, and park without a problem. The town was quite busy and full of marchers regularly arriving looking hot and sweaty. There were all types young and old. The town seemed to be able to absorb the crowd quite well considering how narrow the streets are. It's quite long and spread out though.

The views are dramatic, but unfortunately not quite as stunning as they should be due to the smog. Italy has the worst air quality that I've ever experienced. We've noticed it everywhere.

We managed to see St Francis' birthplace and a shrine built over his family home, the basilica that has his tomb and the Basilica of St Clare which has other relics. It's fascinating to see the Catholic veneration of saints, the buildings are amazing. I have no idea how they can know that the relics they have on display are genuine, such things as hair shirts, tunics, a poultice and books.

We did manage to get lost trying to find the carpark on our way out. Two sets of police had to give us directions.

We then drove half an hour across the valley to another hill top town, the larger and more modern Perugia. I disobeyed Tim and had to drop Tan off at the top of our hotel's one way street while I went back the way I should have gone. Only problem was Tim led us into a carpark that seemed like a dead end. We were following another car that had come out of our hotel road and I though he was doing a loop around as well. Turns out he was parking, in quite an awkward spot in the end as he was nearly blocking what I realised was the road Tim wanted me to follow. I thought it was a cavity in the wall but it was a very tight 90 degree turn into a laneway millimeteres wider than the car.

The man parking guided me around the corner after confirming this really was a road I could drive down. We just made it and managed to find Tan again. I couldn't believe what we drove through and we had to take Tan down later to show her.

Perugia was really different, a mix of old and new like many towns but very steep. We took a wrong turn when we set out for a walk that evening. Once we realised we turned up a road leading the right way and noticed most people were walking into a tunnel that seemed like the entrance to a train station. We followed as there were escalators and we thought it would get us up the hill quicker. Four or five sets of escalators later we emerged in the interior of an ancient brick castle. High vaulted ceilings and stone flagging, it was amazing. We continued walking up the ramps through these vast brick caverns and eventually came out in the Piazza at the top of the town.

We had happened on our destination entirely by chance but had come the best way we could have,although we did find an elevator to get back down another way later. There was a flea market on in the Piazza as well as the ending of a festival. Quite a happening atmosphere. The markets had fabulous collection of antiques of all descriptions, furniture, decorations, magazines, etchings, LP records (Em wanted some as decorations for her room - very retro), clothes, hats just about everything. A bit like Daph's attic, just more and older.

We finished the night with dinner at a pub with tables on the street which continued the atmosphere a bit. Then back to the hotel to catch up on a week's photos and blogging. SO here we are now up to date. We're currently in Sorrento after a 4.5 hour drive today. We've had a walk around town checking out the shops and some lunch while we killed time until checking into our apartment at 4.30pm. I think Sam is addicted to Margherita pizza as he is averaging one per day!

We've had some hassle with our apartment in Rome, an email came tonight saying they hav to do some emergency bathroom work so it isn't available. They've offered us a slightly smaller place but it is in the Trastevere area of Rome. Our original booking was near Piazza Navona so much more central. Tan has sent off an enquiry for another apartment in the centre but we're not sure what to do. Trastevere sounds nice but is not as close for walking.

Off to Pompei tomorrow then Capri on Wednesday.

Umbria